Collagen: Why the Trend Protein Is Often a Waste of Money

Collagen is marketed in adverts as a miniature fountain of youth: a drink in the morning, a cream at night, powder in a smoothie – and flawless, wrinkle-free skin is supposedly yours. Look more closely, however, and it soon becomes clear that the claims are far bigger than the evidence from studies so far. Research, mechanisms of action and potential risks all suggest why this trend protein is more likely to be a waste of money than a game-changer for most people.

What collagen actually does in the body

Collagen is not an exotic beauty ingredient but one of the body’s key structural proteins. It accounts for around a third of all protein in the human body. Its fibres run through:

• the skin – helping it remain supple and resilient
• bones – maintaining their basic structure and stability
• tendons and ligaments – enabling them to withstand strain more effectively
• cartilage – allowing joints to cushion impacts

The body makes its own collagen. To do this, it breaks down dietary protein into amino acids before assembling them again. Glycine, lysine and proline are particularly important in this process. Provided there is enough protein, vitamins and trace elements available, this system works remarkably well.

From the mid-twenties: the natural drop in collagen

From roughly the age of 25, the body gradually reduces its collagen production. The change happens slowly, but becomes increasingly noticeable over time:

• the first fine lines around the eyes and mouth
• reduced firmness in the skin, especially on the face and décolletage
• a drier-looking skin surface
• small wounds taking longer to heal

This is exactly where beauty companies step in. Their message is simple: if the body makes less collagen, we will supply it from outside. It is an appealing idea, but biochemically it works far less neatly than advertising suggests.

“The problem with collagen products is not the substance itself, but the expectation that it ends up specifically where wrinkles form.”

Collagen creams: restricted to the surface

Many brands rely on collagen creams, serums and masks. They promise that the fibres will plump up wrinkles from the outside and leave skin smoother. In reality, the situation is different:

• Collagen molecules are too large to cross the skin barrier.
• They largely remain on the surface.
• Their effect is similar to that of an ordinary moisturiser: skin can look temporarily fuller because moisture is retained.

That can feel pleasant and make the skin appear fresher for a few hours. However, it has very little to do with genuinely stimulating collagen production in deeper layers of the skin.

Drinking or taking collagen: high hopes, limited evidence

The other major trend is collagen in drink shots, powders and capsules. The reasoning is that if the skin barrier is an obstacle, collagen can simply be sent through the stomach instead. Yet the body follows its usual routine here too.

Protein – whether it comes from steak, lentils or collagen powder – is broken down into smaller building blocks in the digestive tract. These then enter the bloodstream and become available throughout the body wherever cells currently need protein. The body does not sort them according to marketing claims. It allocates them according to need: skin, muscles, liver and bones – whichever calls first receives the building blocks.

Studies do indicate that certain collagen supplements may have minimal effects on skin hydration and elasticity. However, the evidence base is limited, trials often involve small groups, run for only a short time and are close to manufacturers. There is no clear proof of visible anti-ageing results.

“Whether swallowed collagen is genuinely incorporated specifically into facial skin or joints remains largely speculation so far.”

Does the body need extra collagen at all?

For healthy people, there is no general evidence that additional collagen is needed. Anyone eating a balanced diet and consuming sufficient protein already provides the body with the necessary building blocks. For most people, the following are more useful than expensive powders:

• enough protein from fish, meat, eggs, pulses and dairy products
• vitamin C from fruit and vegetables, as it contributes to collagen formation
• avoiding nicotine, because smoking damages collagen structures
• consistent UV protection to slow down light-induced collagen breakdown

Anyone who still chooses collagen supplements should at least pay attention to the amount consumed. The Federal Institute for Risk Assessment identifies five grams per day as a sensible upper limit.

Risks and side effects: not every product is harmless

Collagen is considered relatively well tolerated, but the trend is not entirely without risk. Possible issues include:

• allergic reactions to animal-derived ingredients
• skin redness and a sensation of heat caused by nicotinic acid in some products
• contamination in poor-quality products

Anyone with pre-existing conditions, taking medication regularly or who is pregnant should not use supplements in general without consulting a doctor. The source of the collagen also matters: beef, fish or pork – not everyone tolerates every type, and not every source is monitored equally well.

Why collagen powder remains a bestseller

Despite the weak body of research, the market is booming. Practical tests show that tubs and small jars sell extremely well, even though the promoted effects have little scientific support. The reasons are obvious:

• The promise of “beauty you can drink” sounds easy and convenient.
• Before-and-after photos on social media create powerful expectations.
• Many consumers want to feel in control of the ageing process.
• Price is often equated with “quality” – higher cost appears more credible.

Comparative tests reveal clear differences between products. Some suppliers openly state the origin, collagen type, dosage and added ingredients, while others remain vague. Purity, clear labelling and a realistic value-for-money comparison are missing more often than might be expected.

What really helps against wrinkles

Anyone noticing the first lines on their face understandably wants to do something about them. Rather than relying blindly on collagen, it is worth considering measures whose effects are better supported:

• daily sun protection with a high sun protection factor
• retinoids in skincare, such as retinol at an appropriate concentration
• consistent moisturising care with hyaluronic acid or glycerin
• sufficient sleep and reduced stress
• little alcohol and no nicotine

Medical-aesthetic treatments such as laser procedures, microneedling or minimally invasive interventions affect collagen structures more strongly, but they also bring their own risks and costs. Anyone considering them needs sound medical advice and should not rely on social-media trends.

How to assess advertising claims more effectively

Beauty products containing collagen are unlikely to disappear from shop shelves any time soon. That makes a critical look at the small print all the more valuable. A few key questions can help:

• Are there independent studies, or only manufacturer claims?
• Are specific effects promised in percentages – and what evidence supports them?
• Is it clearly stated which ingredients are included and in what quantities?
• Does the wording appear scientifically sound, or more like an advertising slogan?

Keeping these questions in mind makes it less likely that you will reach for an expensive placebo. Collagen remains a fascinating molecule in the body, but based on current research it is poorly suited to being the supposed cure-all in the bathroom cabinet.