Marques'Almeida Brings 1990s British Club Culture to Matosinhos

The aesthetic of 1990s British club culture defined the collection shown in Matosinhos, where the design duo discussed the challenges of running their brand and teaching.

Marques'Almeida and 1990s British rave culture

The energy of 1990s British raves filled the former Vasco da Gama Canning Factory in Matosinhos as Marques'Almeida closed the second day of Portugal Fashion Experience. Backstage, Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida outlined the inspiration behind a collection featuring floor-skimming sequinned dresses, cargo trousers, feathers and wet-look hair.

“It really was rave,” Marta says, still immersed in the catwalk atmosphere. Beside her, Paulo Almeida notes that the “idea of luxury has always been about deconstructing luxury into something almost rave-like. As if you were in a hall somewhere in the UK in the 1990s.” Laughing, he recalls the label the team gave the creative process: “We called it our midlife-crisis show.”

The collection brings together pre-autumn and autumn/winter 2026 proposals, retaining the visual language that has set the brand apart from the outset: oversized silhouettes, deconstructed materials and references to urban culture.

The duo still regards the runway as the ultimate space for creative freedom. “We have always rejected presentations. We grew up watching McQueen shows in 2003 or Comme des Garçons. Artistically, for us, the show is the moment when designers can step away from production and explore their more creative side,” says Marta.

Learning from younger designers

After 15 years of international work, the designers have found that teaching helps them avoid becoming complacent. Alongside the mentoring they provide through Portugal Fashion, they teach at ESAD and watched with emotion as current and former students presented their work, including Enzo Peres, who made his solo debut on the Bloom platform with the E.P. Atel"ye label.

This year, the competition recognised André Pinto for a collection made entirely by hand, in which a shell dress took centre stage. At the end, the young designer admitted he was living a “childhood dream”. “I always wanted to be a fashion designer, but I thought it would never happen,” he said.

“We feel that we are now taking on a little of the role of the older generation, but it is very rewarding,” Marta admits. Paulo Almeida stresses that learning works both ways: “We try to convey to them that they cannot be afraid to have fun with what they do.”

Marques'Almeida's international strategy

The brand’s reinvention has also involved its commercial strategy, with a focus on international markets. The US accounts for a significant share of sales, while the Middle East has prompted the team to create different pieces without giving up its irreverence.

Fashion remains in Porto, where Sílvia Rocha’s Ahcor opened M.ODU: Abattoir, Another Urban Destination as the event’s runway venue. The edition ends this Saturday.